When installing door trim, some carpenters begin with the legs(vertical pieces); Others prefer to hang the top trim first. Installing the top first has the advantage of offering precise control over the most finicky part of the installation, the miters. Once the top trim is up, install the legs one at a time, positioning each so that the miter is perfect. If you install the legs first, you'll have to fit the top trim on both miters simultaneously. Unless both miters are perfect and the legs perfectly parallel, you are bound to get gaps you can't close in your work.
Lay out out the reveal., The door trim is never flush with the edge of the jamb; typically it sits back from the edge by about 1/8th inch. The space, or reveal, leaves enough room for the hinge barrel and provides a margin of error if the jamb dips.
The frame on the prehung door is likely to have a layout line on it that marks the edge of the reveal. If you work on an unmarked door frame, set a combination square to 1/8 inch, and guide it and a pencil along the frame. Mark the reveal on both sides and above the door.
Measure and miter the top trim. First cut a 45-degree miter on one end of the top trim piece; hold it in place to mark the inside point of the second miter cut. Lay out the cut with a combination square, and cut it with a miter box.
Nail the top trim in place. To help position the trim, miter two scrap pieces of molding, and clamp them in place along the sides of the door frame. Cut and place the top trim and adjust as necessary to get a tight miter. Nail the top trim into the jamb. Leave at least 1/8 inch of the nails exposed in case you need to adjust the piece later. Use #6 finishing nails for the jabs and #8 finishing nails through the trim and into the studs.
Miter the legs. Mitering a piece to fit can be tricky. Make it easy on yourself by mitering the legs before you square them off. Then place the legs against the frame so they are upside down. This leaves the miter on the floor and the fulll length of the trim extending toward the ceiling. Mark where the tiop trim touches the leg and cut the leg quare at the mark.
Nail the legs to the door frame. Start at the top, holding the leg so the miter closes tightly, and drive a #6 finishing nail through it and into the jamb. Work down the leg, flexing it if necessary so that it aligns with the line that marks the framing behind the wall. Repeat on the opposite leg, and then set all the nails. To keep the corners tight, predrill and drive a #6 finishing nail at an angle up through the edge of the leg, through the miter, and into the header molding.
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